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Beho Beho – Bailey’s Banda

Something new at Beho Beho for the 2012-13 season – an ‘owner’s house’ – or private villa – we are calling it ‘Bailey’s Banda’ – has been constructed on the hillside behind Banda 5. Being higher on the hillside and having a first floor bedroom, the views into the valley and the hippo pools are certainly wild Africa at its very best. Bailey’s Banda is still part of the camp but enjoys its privacy and is the perfect hideaway for those who want to appreciate the bush without the ‘camaraderie’ of staying in a ‘home-style’ camp like Beho Beho.

With two very spacious en suite bedrooms both with king-sized beds and the possibility to use the Zanzibar divan bed to create a twin bedded room, Bailey’s Banda is ideal for honeymooners, friends travelling together, or families (but still not really suitable for young children and children under 12 are not able to walk from the camp).

The open-plan and open-sided main areas of the banda have many combinations of dining and relaxing spaces, together with a plunge pool and sunbathing/game viewing deck. The accent is on privacy and enjoying the quality ‘private time’ that is sometimes hard to find on safari, with dedicated staff, its own kitchen (complete with chef) and exclusive safari vehicle. Game activities are tailor-made to suit each guest and are guided and guarded by some of the most qualified guides in East Africa.

Staying in Bailey’s Banda will be very much like having one’s own house in Africa a luxurious haven for exploring the magnificent Selous game reserve, but on one’s own terms – whether it is on foot, in your exclusive safari vehicle or your exclusive private boat on nearby Lake Tagalala.  During the heat of the day what better than to have your own private pool, sun deck or the shade of a sun-umbrella and in the evenings dinner under the stars before settling down in the comfortable sitting room to enjoy some music or a video before bed.

Rates for Bailey’s Banda are the same as the main camp – however there is a supplementary charge of USD1000 per night for the banda, regardless of the number of guests staying there.

We will be having some professional photos taken at the end of May before the season starts but below you will find a taster of what’s to come.

Governors’ Camp Game Report, Masai Mara, April 2012

Weather and grasslands

Early on in April it looked like as though the rain was gone with clear skies every day, then in the first two weeks the weather broke, bringing rain and with it an abundance of growth in the grasslands. Most days showed a similar pattern with overcast mornings, sunny late afernoons followed by evening rain which would fall until the early hours of the morning. We received most of our heavy rainfall towards the end of the month. All this rain caused the Marsh to fill up and the levels of the Mara River to rise considerably.

General game

We have enjoyed good sightings of lion and leopard this month, some impala fawns were born and leopard and cheetah were preying on these fawns.

Elephant with small calves are now spending more time out of the woodlands in the grassland plains and in the Musiara Marsh. There are also a few large bulls that wander back and forth and some are now in Musth. Some of these bulls have very worn tusks (upper incisors) of which a number of them can be seen with broken incisors. The permanent tusks (incisors) begin to protrude beyond the lips of an elephant at around 2-3 years of age and will continue to grow throughout its life.

698 - Governors Camp Game Report, Masai Mara, April 2012

Photo courtesy of Patrick Reynolds

There are still are good numbers of eland in the Marsh grasslands and also on the Musiara plains. On the short grass plains on the south side of Rhino Ridge and Topi Plains many topi have congregated, due to the recent rainfall which brings on a good leaf structure. Many impala females are pregnant and there are many young fawns around too, guests have also witnessed some of these births. Defassa Waterbuck remain throughout the Musiara Marsh grasslands.

When the Mara River leves were low hippo were being seen in large pods as they were forced to congregate together into the remaining deep water pools, there were many places on the Mara River where pod densities exceed 100 animals. Within these pods there were calves of varying ages and, one was born at IL Moran Camp very recently. Hippo gestation is 8 months and the calf is generally born in shallow water and introduced slowly to the main pod where the mother is from. With the onset of the rains peak births occur toward the beginning of the wet season. Weaning starts between six and eight months after birth and most calves are fully weaned after a year. The hippo with pink feet we call “socks” is seen regularly at Il Moran and this hippo is around 3-4 years old.

701 - Governors Camp Game Report, Masai Mara, April 2012

Photo courtesy of Maina

Good sized troops of Olive baboons can be seen foraging between the camps, young infants are very playful, and they start riding jockey style when they are about six weeks old.

Baboons being terrestrial and omnivores they have quite a diverse diet consisting of meat, grass, berries, seeds, leaves, roots, bark, insects, fish, birds and small baby antelopes.

Cokes Hartebeest can be seen in small pockets through Paradise, Rhino Ridge and Bila Shaka Plains. Male Cokes Hartebeest will also advertise their presence on termite mounds. The Cape buffalo breeding herd has been seen on Rhino Ridge and Bila Shaka. There are also some young calves in this herd; calves at a young age are vulnerable to predation from both spotted hyena and lion. Earlier on in the month there were good numbers of zebra within Bila Shaka and Musiara, many fell prey to the Marsh Pride of lions. Thompson Gazelle or commonly called ‘Tommies’ are seen particularly on the short grass plains and these are favoured prey for cheetah. When cheetah succeeds in subduing their prey they tend to eat very fast due to competition from other predators such as Spotted Hyena, lion and leopard. On the 16th guests saw that very scenario with hyena stealing a freshly killed Thompson Gazelle from a female cheetah near the rocky hill on Paradise Plains.

Thompson Gazelles have also given birth and these fawns have been preyed by cheetah particularly those with cubs. Female warthogs with two or three piglets still will be seen through the grassland plains; females spend most of their lives in groups called soundings, the female offspring may stay within the sounding for up to two years or more. Males do not play a role in parental care. Warthogs have started mating and will go through until early next month. Sows then have a 172 day gestation which brings them into September to see the first piglets. Lion still feed off warthog regularly and the Marsh Pride have subsisted on warthog recently.

Giraffe are well spread out, good sightings of them in the riverine woodlands between the camps and also within stands of Acacia which they favor. Some guest have seen that Giraffe are eating or sucking on pieces of bones, this activity is actually often seen in areas where calcium and phosphorous are perhaps deficient in the soils and vegetation. Giraffe have a large demand of calcium and phosphorous in the compromise of skeletal build to support their large and dense bone structure. This was seen in the extreme north of the Mara, where as generally speaking these trace elements in many areas of the Masai Mara are more apparent.

A spotted hyena was seen on the 3rd April eating the remains of a Black backed Jackal, close by their were lion on a topi kill so perhaps this Jackal got too close to lion while they were feeding and was swiped by a paw from a lion which has the impact to kill a jackal.

699 - Governors Camp Game Report, Masai Mara, April 2012

Photo courtesy of Patrick Reynolds

There have been some good sightings of Aardwolf on Rhino Ridge and Paradise Plains. Good times for seeing them are late evenings or early mornings. In the first weeks of April there were some good sightings. There is a den near the bottom end of the Bila Shaka River, this female has been seen frequently. The aardwolf has modified cheek teeth and lives on open, dry plains and bush land, avoiding mountainous areas. Due to its specific food requirements, the animal is only found in regions where termites of the family Hodotermitidae (harvester termites) occur. Termites of this family depend on dead and withered grasses and are most populous in heavily grazed grasslands including farmland.

Black Rhino have also been seen recently this month mainly on Paradise Plains and also occasionally near Bila Shaka. With one male in particular being seen on Paradise Plains.

Cats

Lion

The four marsh males move between Bila Shaka and Topi Plains. The four young females are also being seen spread out. With the recent rains they have all been up on Topi Plains and the almost as far as Rhino Ridge. They have been feeding off warthog and topi. There is still no sign of white eye, she was last seen early on last month north of the Marsh and a driver guide from the conservancy said he thought she looked like she was lactating.

Scar was seen on the 19th at 9.00am being treed by a herd of buffalo, such a large lion in the fork of an Olive tree seemed a little precarious. Buffalo if they work together will chase lion in some circumstances where if lion take flight buffalo will have the upper hand and will make a concerted effort to chase them until an individual will often opt to climb a tree.

700 - Governors Camp Game Report, Masai Mara, April 2012

Photo courtesy of Mary Lau

Notch and the four males were seen near the saltlick on the Ntiaktiak River where they had killed a hippo. These lion have killed and fed off three hippos this month two of which were close apparently a few days apart. They were seen moving close to the Talek River area where they had killed a male buffalo on the 16th. Later, on the 19th they were seen far up the Talek River. On the 29th they were all seen near the fig tree area and on the 30th they were seen closer towards the Ntiaktiak River. These males cover a large home range.

A lioness is often seen on her own from Bila Shaka and also on Topi Plains, this lioness was part of the Marsh Pride and broke away in early 2006.

Another lioness with one cub was seen on Rhino Ridge on the 25th at 8.30am and this lioness is from the Olkiombo area and the cub is about 3 months old. On the 29th the lioness and her cub were seen closer to the Talek River.

The Maternity pride of 12 lion including their 3 cubs which are 3-4 months old, one of the cubs early on in the month was looking unwell and thin according to guides from other areas of the Mara it is improving substantially now so perhaps this cub was not feeding well. On the 25th they were seen on the south bank of the Talek River were they are still now, the one young cub that as look malnourished is much improved.

On the 20th the four notch males and the maternity pride killed a male hippo the other side of the Talek River on the Burrangat plains.

704 - Governors Camp Game Report, Masai Mara, April 2012

Photo courtesy of Patrick Reynolds

Three females and a sub adult from the Ridge Pride are being seen near Emarti and on the southern fans of Rhino Ridge where they have been feeding off warthog and zebra.

Cheetah

The two males have been active, feeding off Thomson Gazelle and impala. They move about in big circles form Rhino Ridge and as far as the conservation areas on the short grass plains of Koiyaki. A female is being seen on Paradise Plains and also near Bila Shaka. On the 15th she had killed a Thomson Gazelle but was robbed of it by spotted Hyena soon after she had killed it, they suffer from competition from other predators. Another male has been seen near Topi Plains, on the 21st at 7.30am he was seen feeding off a young Thomson Gazelle with two Jackals harassing him, after 20 minutes of feeding the cheetah got up and left when a spotted Hyena turned up.

705 - Governors Camp Game Report, Masai Mara, April 2012

Photo courtesy of Maina

Leopard

Olive and her two cubs that are 7 weeks old have been seen briefly on the 2nd, 5th and 7th in the thicket on the Talek not far downstream from where the Olare Orok River flows into the Talek, due to a slow season and wet conditions sightings have been poor. She has been seen feeding off young impala and Thomson Gazelle. On the 20th she was seen again on the south side of the Talek River, during the low river she must have crossed over.

Olive’s daughter has been seen often the other side of the Talek River to where her mother is.

702 - Governors Camp Game Report, Masai Mara, April 2012

Photo courtesy of Mary Lau

We have also enjoyed lovely sightings of the female leopard near the croton thickets at Paradise. She has been seen frequently in this area. This female has two cubs a male and a female which are estimated at 7 months old now. The young male near the Mara River has been seen often, on the 19th it was seen near a Boscia tree where it was resting on seeing a troop of Olive Baboons it ran off into a croton thicket.

Walking in the Mara North Conservancy

There have been no walks this month due to the onset of the rains. Two drives have been done in the conservancy. The female cheetah with the young 5 month old cub has been seen on both occasions near the ‘fly over’ plains and she has been feeding off impala and Thompson Gazelle. Elephant have been seen in the Acacia woodlands and grasslands. Many zebra can be seen throughout the conservancy. Impala with young fawns of which one very young fawn was taken by a pair of Black Backed Jackals near the white highland ridge. On the 20th 5 lionesses were seen on the plains beneath the fly over. There are still 8 cubs of varying ages, 4 are 7 months old and 4 are 8 months old. Last month there were 9 cubs seen, it appears that one has gone missing it is suggested that it may have been caught up fleeing from a herd of buffalo that frequent this area from time to time. These five lionesses and 8 cubs are being seen frequently.

There are two male ‘white’ lion of the river pride in the north of the conservancy near the Mara River there are also four cubs of which two are estimated at 3 months old and the other two are merely one month old.

With the onset of the rains many termites’ species are active as can be seen with the continued building of their mounds. After a rainfall pattern the worker castes of many subterranean termites break open the nest walls and the alates or reproductive’s take flight and are known as ‘flying ants’. These alates are eaten by most mammals and birds of all sizes. A termite mound is the by far the oldest and organised community found between all organisms. The winged (or ‘alate’) caste, also referred to as the reproductive caste, is generally the only termites with well-developed eyes.

We hope to share the magic of our corner of the Mara with you sometime soon.

Kwando game report

Kwara Concession

KWA.122400 - Kwando game report

The beginning of March is the beginning of the fishing season – however, this didn’t seem to be limited to just humans enjoying throwing a line in the water to see what they could pull up for dinner: the first ‘legal’ day for fishing saw a crocodile munching on a fish, and, in the same area, a serval cat, having dexterously grabbed another catfish out of the water with his paws.

Lions were seen almost every day in March, mostly doing what lions like to do for most of the day/night: sleep! Two adults and one youngster did manage to stay awake long enough to kill a tsessebe however, and all the lions look healthy, so they all must be hunting whilst our backs are turned! At night, as the temperature cools down, its worth waiting around to see if they will call – the beautiful deep roars resonate through the night. Solo pride (seven individuals) came into their own later in the month, and spent a long time stalking a group of giraffe. After much effort, however, they came away empty-handed.

This month we were lucky enough to see a pack of 12 wild dogs a couple of times – on one occasion they went hunting and killed a young kudu, and an impala at the same time, ensuring enough food for the whole pack. Three cheetahs also managed to kill a young kudu calf, and were seen feeding on that. When the cheetahs left the carcass, six hyenas quickly moved in to enjoy the remains. A solitary cheetah also managed to kill a reedback close to the airstrip.

General game has been excellent, and there was a special sighting of a sitatunga in a marsh area. Normally this shy semi-aquatic antelope is only seen from the boat!

Lebala

LBA.122453 - Kwando game report

The three cheetah brothers were seen at Lebala a few times early in the month, and caught a baby zebra, before moving north.

At the end of the month, 11 wild dogs were seen (aptly along Wild Dog Road) chasing impala. They had no luck catching any impala, but they did bump into an African Wild Cat – a cat that is the same size as a domestic house-cat. Like most cat-dog relationships, the African Wild Cat still appeared to be the boss, stood his ground, and the dogs gave up and left. They had better success on later days, and caught and killed several impalas. After one of these kills, two hyenas appeared, and attempted to steal the kill off the dogs. The dogs turned on the hyenas, and several launched themselves on to the back of one of the hyena – both turned and fled, with out major injury.

On an early morning in the middle of the month, a lion was heard calling close to Lebala camp. Rushing through breakfast, the guests headed out with the guides following the calls. The large pride male, regular to the area, was found not far away, very relaxed. He is not in good condition however, and lost his brother in a fight with pride that has a territory further to the east.

Elephants still abound everywhere – large breeding herds, sometimes up to 100 individuals – are seen on most game drives. They are also seen regulary in front of camp, and can be heard during the night moving through the water, shuffling hippos out of the way.

Lagoon

lagoon.122523 - Kwando game report

A new pride of lions – 4 adults and two cubs about a year old – moved into the area early in the month. They spent some time following a herd of buffalos, but were not seen to have been successful in a hunt. It will be interesting times when this pride bumps into the regular lions of the area – though they may have just been sneaking through their territory, in the hope of catching some food.

The three cheetah brothers were seen early on in the month, but then headed north into an area that we could not follow. Another type of cat – the caracal – was a more unusual sighting this month.

There were several leopard sightings, including a female leopard who was chased up a tree by the wild dogs. However, her patience paid off, and the dogs lost interest. When they moved off, she climbed down the tree, and fed on the carcass of an impala that was located about 50m by the tree. The dogs themselves hunted a young kudu for themselves that afternoon. Earlier in the month, we had also seen a male leopard who had pulled an impala into a tree and was oblivious to the hours we were able to spend watching him eat and relax.

Quite amazingly, all wild dog puppies have survived and are coming close to matching the adults in size. Now able to cover large distances as a pack together, they have been moving through the Kwando concession, going towards Lebala camp and then back again to the north-west every few days. This provides a challenge for the tracker and guide teams, but adds to the excitement, as hard hours of tracking are put in with the reward of a great sighting of the dogs at the end.

In addition to the known jackal dens from previous months, a hyena den has been discovered. Interestingly, there appears to be only one female hyena suckling her two young in this den. Three porcupines were seen coming out of a hole near the den, with the baby hyena snuffling around the hole when they had left.

The more unusual antelope – roan, sable and eland were all seen several times this month, together with regular sightings of giraffe, wildebeest, zebras and tsessebes. Breeding herds of elephants are seen throughout the area, and the bulls are still coming into camp – possibly looking for the marula fruit which is about to ripen.

Nxai Pan

nxai.122556 - Kwando game report

The female cheetah with her two young cubs is still being seen regularly – every day or two in the month of March. Although we were not lucky enough to see her kill, she and her cubs are obviously well fed, and we often saw her resting and relaxing close to the waterholes. One morning, a jackal got a bit too close for comfort to the cheetahs –jackals often follow predators to see if they can scavenge any part of a kill that is made. On this occasion, the cheetah cub took offence, and chased the jackal, managing to hit it with a paw. The jackals escaped, but ran off calling in distress.

The recent rains have allowed fresh green grass to grown, making good grazing and attracting good general game including springbok, zebra and oryx. This in turn encourages the predators to the area, so as well as the cheetahs, we have had several sightings of the Nxai Pan pride of lions – a group of six adults with three young. One of the females was also seen with an unidentified male along Baobab Loop.

The larger groupings of zebras have started to move back towards Magkadigadi Pans, but there are still good sized herds of around 30 individuals left enjoying the grass around the pan.

The elephant bulls spend much of their time strolling around looking for good sources of food, but because of the limited amount of water available, they usually come via the camp waterhole at some point during the day, pushing the general game out of the way to drink.

Tau Pan

 - Kwando game report

The Tau Pan pride of lions were seen most days this month – often around the water hole near the camp. There was a bit of a concern on the 11th of the month, when it appeared two cubs were missing, and the females were slightly bloodied – it was thought possibly an intruding lion had been involved in a fight with the pride. Luckily after five days, all the Tau Pan pride, including the six cubs, were seen together again, looking in good condition. , Towards the end of the month, they were spotted feeding on a giraffe, which they managed to finish in one day! Two days later they pulled down an oryx during the night, and had finished it by noon the next day. It takes a lot to feed four adults, and six fast-growing cubs!

There were several sightings of leopards, including one male that spent 20minutes in the late afternoon relaxing on the road, before sauntering off.

After the March rains, the antelope seem to be increasing in the area – lots of oryx, springbok, and wildebeest seen around Tau pan and along the road to Deception Valley. The beginning of the month saw a few new additions: oryx and springbok babies were seen following their mothers closely in the Tau Pan area.

Investigating a cloud of dust that didn’t seem to be decreasing in the breeze, a honeybadger was found digging in the ground. A couple of jackals stood off close to one side, interested in what the honey badger might discover, After about 15 minutes, the honey badger dragged a dead young warthog out of the burrow. The jackals tried to claim the prize, but were put off by the hissing and growling of the honey badger, as he trotted off into the bush with the warthog dangling from his mouth.

Another unusual sighting was of a snouted cobra, which was attempting to hunt ground squirrels. The squirrels, however, were having none of it: a head to head fight between both species ended with the cobra slinking off down a hole, perhaps for a bit of a rest from the chirruping and chattering ‘prey’.

An interesting sighting of a pale chanting goshawk attempting to grab a guineafowl resulted in the goshawk being kicked and flung across the ground – leaving with a few bruises and a few less feathers!

Singita Launches New Tented Camp – Opening 3 August 2012

 

Singita Mara River Tented Camp is located on the world-renowned Mara River in the Lamai triangle, the northern most tip of the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. With only six tents, two of which are designed to accommodate families, this small camp is intended to have a minimum environmental impact and offer natural and relaxed styling to complement its remote and isolated location.

Singita’s newest tented camp opens 3 August 2012 and is oriented to maximize endless views of the Mara River providing intense closeness to nature. The Lamai triangle also offers consistent and abundant, year round concentrations of resident game in addition to enormous populations of crocodile and hippo in the Mara River.

SingitaGrumetiReserves5.142420 - Singita Launches New Tented Camp   Opening 3 August 2012

Zombies on Kilimanjaro, by Tim Ward – May 2012

z - Zombies on Kilimanjaro, by Tim Ward   May 2012Worth a read !

On the journey to the “Roof of Africa,” a father and 20-year-old son traverse the treacherous terrain of divorce, rebellion, dark secrets and old grudges, as they forge an authentic adult relationship.

 Trekking up the world’s highest freestanding mountain, they explore how our stories about ourselves can imprison us in the past, and the necessity of letting go. The final all-night climb to the volcano’s frozen summit becomes a rite of passage, as oxygen-deprivation turns them into shuffling, brain-dead zombies. The mountain too has a story to tell, a story about Climate Change and the future of humankind: a future clearly etched on Kilimanjaro’s retreating glaciers.

With a Foreword by Wade Davis, author of the 2011 bestseller on Everest, Into the Silence.

 Illuminates the power and the delusion of the stories we tell ourselves, and reveals the key to transforming our world

Carter Roberts, President, World Wildlife Fund, US

 I couldn’t stop laughing. The scene from a “demented African version of The Sound of Music” was hilarious!  

Dee Willock, author, Falling Into Easy

 A high-altitude Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

James O’Reilly, Publisher, Traveler’s Tales