TRIP REPORTS - Flo Montgomery

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Mdonya Old River Camp

We met a car from Mdonya at the Airstrip on our last day at Kwihala. Chombo and Naiti took us on a nice game drive to Mdonya. They were extremely pleasant and friendly, and knowledgeable.

The tsetse seem much better – maybe it is partly the season – also Micol is using tins filled with burning elephant dung on the back of the vehicle, and this really helps and is a good eco friendly solution.
I did not get bitten once!

We drove to camp and were greeted at the car park by Micol, Alex and Sarah, with cold juice as usual. (Micol Farinha was manager last year, Italian. Alex Stewart was there last year too, she is Australian and is now the manager – Micol will be roving maager of both Manze and Mdonya.  Sara Ilum, Danish, is a new assistant who speaks Danish, Swedish, English, Arabic, German and Swahili).
We felt very welcomed, and the whole atmosphere of the camp, with three nice ladies, is very good. The site is as always very shady and beautiful, and the chief asset of Mdonya is the lovely situation, on an old sand river used by game as a corridor.

We had lunch, in the dining tent, very nice and cool – and really the food is the best in Adventure Camps, except Mbweni (which is very good, because of the huge range of fish, fruit and veg there as well as the good chefs) – at Mdonya the food was light, very varied, beautifully presented. Lots of fresh fruit and vegetables stylishly used. Perfect cakes and bread and puddings. Wow!

The tents are well equipped, when my zip broke, it was immediately fixed perfectly – I think the whole section was replaced, as the panels are zipped in. The feminine touch is obvious – many nice little details.

An afternoon game drive was offered, so we went for a sunset sundowner which was extremely pleasant and nicely arranged.
Dinner under the stars was superb, after a campfire meeting of guests with drinks; some guests were dining apart in nice situations, Micol is very good at arranging this and making people feel special.

Morning tea was not offered, but Micol told me it can be done on request, you only have to ask.
Breakfast was very pleasant, in the dining tent, and the lounge is nearby offering a shady location with books etc and comfortable chairs.

Flo’s trip report: Kwihala

We arrived at Msembe airstrip around mid-day – Pietro was there with a car to greet us. He had guests in camp, they were out on a game drive with Festo, the other guide. This camp has only two cars, which is fine for now, as there are only 6 tents, and the policy is that the guests go out with either Pietro or Festo, up to 6 to a car.
The cars are very comfortable, with bucket seats instead of benches as at the other three camps. We drove back to tent, stopping only to view a lion kill just outside the camp.

The camp is very attractive, being on a ridge above the Mwagusi, with cooling breezes. The Lounge and dining tents are spacious, and easily reached from the car park. We were taken to our tents – these are set on either side of the lodge tents, which is good as the view is not spoiled.

All tents are white, which is very pleasant as inside is light and airy. They are bigger than the other camps, with a special design, very attractive. The decoration and finishing is very tasteful, utilising natural materials, weavings, seeds and fibres, pots, and very nice wrought iron work stands for clothes etc. My tent was very well equipped, with two chests of drawers for clothes, bedside lights and standard lights – all EL is provided for these (from solar panels and a central inverter which you don’t hear).  And also for sockets for charging machines. Bottled water was provided in the tents.
I would highly recommend a standing fan in each tent if possible. The tents are very hot, as there is no shade at all for them. Alternative would be to have a higher gap between the ceiling and the top of the tent.

The lounge and dining tents are much cooler, with some shade of trees, but also the gap between tent roof and the canvas top roof is quite wide, almost a metre.
At the tents, the gap seems to be only about 20 cms , and they are very warm in the middle of the day, though pleasant at night.
There are gauze sections on all sides, these can be unzipped to the floor on two sides, so according to where the breeze comes from the tents can be adapted to allow a breeze.
the bathrooms are separated from the bedroom only by a curtain, as at Impala – at Manze and Mdonya there is a zip between these sections, which is difficult to negotiate at night – because of the skylight showers.
The bathrooms have bucket showers, which I’m not sure I really liked – there was never hot water in the evening, though there would have been if I had asked. It did not come automatically then though, I think it was filled at lunchtime, when you don’t really need hot water. Also the water being from the big river, was not very clear.
This will change next season, when a new camp is being built nearby in a beautiful position on a rocky hill above the Mwagusi. It will have its own borehole.
There was a very good Maglite torch for use at night, and guides came to collect the guests for dinner as at the other camps.
Laundry is complimentary, as at Impala.
Early morning tea/coffee is available.

The food was very good, dinner under the stars – this is changed to different locations every night, for variety. There is also  a nice campfire area. Dining is communal, Pietro makes a wonderful host, joined by Festo who is extremely personable and knowledgeable.
Re the menus, I would suggest that maybe a little more fresh produce might be used, as at Mdonya – Micol has two good sources of supply from Iringa and from the nearby village.

Kwihala is all about the guiding, which is always done by the managers themselves. The standard is so far above anything offered at other camps I’ve been to.
There are two game drives per day and cars return to camp for lunch. There is not much point in all day game drives here, as the camp is so nicely located in the best game area of Ruaha, and not too far from the Great Ruaha, and it is easy to return and relax in the tents during the heat of the day. If guests would like an all day drive however, the managers are flexible and arrange this, with picnic lunch.

Most morning game drives depart around 6.30 and a very nice “bonnet breakfast” was provided at a picturesque spot. This involved laying out the food and utensils on the bonnet of the car – no safari chairs and tables. People help themselves, it’s a little less “colonial” and people do enjoy it, and also to be able to stretch the legs a little is nice. Pietro picked a beautiful location by a granite kopje with lovely views.
A  cool box with drinks and bottled water was provided in the car. Drinks are all complimentary.
Each time we arrived back at camp there were  cold towels and juice waiting at the car park.

Before leaving next day we saw the new site for the replacement camp – Carlo will start to build this in Sept-Oct – he already has the building permit, as well as the permit to do walking from camp, which will also begin soon, done by Pietro or the other two managers, Steve and Mario, all of whom have licences, and are Fgasa level 3 trained.
The new site is amazing – a beautiful kopje above the Mwagusi, just west of the current camp. There will be a borehole (water is currently trucked in to the camp from the headquarters).
The reception, lounge and dining will be in the Kopje area, and will evolve as Carlo decides where to place things.
I would suggest the tents be placed 4 on either side of the lodge kopje, to avoid spoiling the view from the top, which is stunning.
Total tents is 8 or 9, I understand. Possibly 2-3 larger tents, with double/twin beds plus two sofas that can be made into extra beds, for families.
It is possible these could be more expensive, i.e. priced by the size of the tent, so honeymooners for example can have a bigger tent if they want it, and will pay for it.

Obviously more cars will be needed as the camp grows. Pietro is already training guides.
I understand the object is to be ready to open the new camp in June 2012.

Flo’s trip report:Selous Impala Camp

We arrived at Impala camp just before lunch, Barbara Ripamonti (she was manager last year), Andreas  Gugliotta (he was there last year, Italian, very good with guests) and Lorenzo Rossi (nephew of Carlo, owner of Kwihala, Italian) were there to greet us and there was fresh juice as usual.

Guests feel very welcomed here, as at all 4 camps.

Barbara did a little introduction and we were shown to the tents, to unpack and refresh before lunch.

All three managers have excellent English and show great attention to detail and to spending time making sure the guests are happy and have what they need.

The tents are very attractive, shady and cool, with floor fans and el lights and sockets. There is boiled and filtered water in a flask, and fly spray is provided. Candles were provided.

As at Kwihala, the bathroom area is separated only by a curtain from the main bedroom, which is very comfortable.
There is a good push button safe for valuables.

Lunch was pleasant in the shady lodge, which is really superb, much better than the old one, being high and cool. The view is good because of the height, and you get a feeling of Adventure, as the staff constantly make plans to do surprises – different dining venues for small groups, sundowners on the river bank with sparkling wine etc etc.

The guiding is very good, also the boat safaris and the big river is of course a great alternative to Lake Manze, and makes two focus safaris in Selous – at both Impala and Manze combined – a good idea.

At Impala there is probably more flexibility in the activities than at any of the other camps, as they have 8 tents, 6 cars and 4 boats.

Usually guests are given their own car per tent, though as with all the camps, we cannot promise this.
Early morning tea/coffee is available.

Having three managers and only 8 tents, it was easier to spread the communication with the guests, so they always felt included and looked after.

The Bar and sundowner campfire are in excellent locations, and very much used – so the guests have a chance to mix and make friends before dinner.

The swimming pool looks great, and is well looked after and a big asset.

The Masaai askaris were good, always there when needed. Instead of having to wait to be guided at a specific time in the evenings, guests are free to call for the Masaai to come when they need them.

When we left for the airstrip to go to Ruaha, the managers were there to say goodbye, the whole feeling is very friendly.

Most agents remark that this camp is very good value for the level and standard.

Flo’s trip report:Selous Impala Flycamp

We were transferred by Manze to meet an Impala car half way to the flycamp, which was near Lake Siwandu. We had Gerard and Mussa Makubi guiding and driving and they were superb.
Gerard knows how to talk to clients, and he also has all the information, a pleasant manner and very good English.
We drove on a game drive to the flycamp where the tents were already set up.
The staff were ready to greet us with fresh juice. There were three staff – butler, chef and tent attendant – and also an armed Reserve Ranger, who was also very pleasant.
The car stayed with us, with the driver and guide.

We were 4 pax (a family group, more than one group are not usually put together unless its requested – usually there will only be 1 or 2 people on flycamp) and had 2 tents, and one bucket shower and loo separate from the tents.
There was a personal note to us by name, from Barbara, welcoming us to the Impala flycamp.

The tents were cool and airy – having 3 gauzed windows and a gauzed door, so air could come in from all 4 sides. There was a little veranda with chairs, and flaps over the windows pulled out to give shade. The beds were mattresses on the floor, very comfortable. We had a bedside table and a chest in the tent. A torch, mosquito spray, boiled and filtered water in a flask, and tissues, were provided.

We had sundowners by a campfire, then moved over to a shaded dining table (in case of rain, though it was pleasantly warm) and dinner was served very nicely. The food was perfect, all cooked on a wood fire, with lots of fresh ingredients, and very tasty.
There was wine if we wanted it, and a good selection of drinks.

The experience was very nice. In the morning Gerard took us for an excellent walking safari, with Thomas the Ranger attending.
I understand that Musa Makomba now has a rifle, licence and permission to do the walking safaris without a ranger. He was in Dar while I was there so I did not meet him this time.

We came back to the camp for breakfast, then left for the main camp on a game drive, arriving there before lunch.

Flo’s rescent report of Lake Manze, Selous Game Reserve

First was Lake Manze where we were met at the airstrip when we landed around 10.45 (BA was late) and transferred to the camp on a game drive, arriving in camp around 12.30.

Sarah, Gilles and Leonard were there to greet us and there was cold juice waiting at the car park for us.

Sarah Gigli (Italian) was the assistant manager last year, and is the manager now, as Richard Jones has moved to Rhino Lodge.

Gilles Nicolet was at Mdonya last year – he is French; he will make a good addition to the Manze team.  He has experience in the hospitality industry and has a pleasant manner with the guests. Obviously he speaks French, which is an asset. Both Sarah and Gilles speak very good English.

Leonard and George, the Tanzanian assistant managers are still in place, they work in the office and are present in the dining lodge in the evenings, to chat to the guests.

They took very good care of everyone during the time I was there. They are a good team, together with the rest of the staff, about 50 personnel.

Sarah did a little introduction and explained the safety points about the camp while we sat in the shady lodge. Then we were shown to the tents, to take a welcome shower (skylight) with solar hot water, before lunch.

Lunch that day was Swahili food, I think it was quite nice, but a little heavy. Its fun though for people to try this, I am sure. The food was generally nice, though I do think a bit heavy considering how hot it is in Selous. Sara is looking at doing more salads and lighter food.

The camp looked in good shape, Sarah is very efficient, and the tents and furnishing looked clean and tidy and well kept.
Each tent has a comfortable bed, a canvas clothes shelves unit with hanging rail, a lockup chest with key and a safari desk and chair. On the veranda are two chairs and a little table.
There were candles and matches, a torch, fly spray, a flask of boiled and filtered water (though plastic bottles of water are also available on request, free of charge).

Soap is also provided – no shower gel or shampoo.

There are 12 tents, of which 2 can be turned into family tents (with extra room zipped on front in place of veranda) and there are 7 cars each with a driver and a guide, and 4 boats. Walking safaris are part of the activities – usually taken in the morning before breakfast; then a game drive before lunch can also be fitted in, and another one in the evening, or a boat safari. Usually not more than 4 pax are placed in  vehicle – except for airstrip transfers, when we use a 6 seater.

The game viewing was quite good, considering the rains were still continuing, and the guiding was pleasant. As at all the Adventure Camps properties, guides are constantly being trained up as good guiding is a top priority.

Rashidi Toboke guided us on the boat safari, which was impressive – the water was high and Lake Manze was really beautiful. He seemed knowledgeable, and was helpful and also discreet. I think the Lake is a good contrast to the Rufiji, for guests who are staying at both Impala and Manze.

Coolboxes with drinks were available on game drives and boat safaris.

Sometimes guests have to be put with other tent occupants, but there is quite a high proportion of trips with one tent per car, though we can never promise this.

Dinner was very nice, at a big table between the lodge and the lake, as usual. Surrounded by fires and oil lamps, and Masaai on guard. It was very convivial and you could tell that all the guests were pleased to be together. Sarah told me she can do “veranda dinners” when requested, for honeymooners, special occasions like anniversaries, or if the guests want to be private.

The Masaai askaris were good, always there when needed. They come for the clients at  a prearranged time to escort them to dinner, but can also be called at any time.

Sarah told me that she can do veranda dinners for guests who want that. And of course they do bush breakfast when guests go out on early game drives, and bush lunch when they are out all day.

All the guests seemed very happy.
There is now complimentary bottled water and service generally is very pleasant and efficient.
When guests arrive or leave the camp, there is always someone from the management team to greet them in a friendly way.

Tea and coffee are available in the morning on request – though its not offered unless asked for.