Despite my personal reservations, your advice, as always from TO, was absolutely on the ball. I had feared that our viewing would be marred by lots of other vehicles, but not at all. In South Serengeti, we literally saw millions of animals – mostly wildebeest and zebra of course, but on most days not more than one other vehicle! The timing was perfect, with all the wildebeest calving in our area, but the weather was not ideal. We just managed to avoid the rain, but it was mostly dull, and I gather they had a lot of rain just before we arrived which made the land rather boggy.
Now to the camps:-
Crater Lodge
As anticipated, this was way over the top – who expects to see electric golf carts in a game lodge? – but great fun for a couple of nights. Super luxurious, superb banda with a great view, personal butler service and everything one could wish for. It was possibly a little too luxurious to have the true feeling of a game lodge – for us the ideal balance is Beho Beho – luxury but with a feeling of intimate contact with the game. Apart from a small hiccup at the beginning, the service and food were excellent. I should explain that after an overnight flight to Nairobi, then a four hour hopping flight with Coastal to Manyara, then a one and a half hour drive to the lodge, we were dog tired on arrival, and all we wanted was a siesta. The manager however was insistent that we have pep talk with others and then lunch before we could go to our banda, about 4 p.m. We were not best pleased. They did however make up for it and more the following day. We arrived back after a nine hour game drive in the crater to find the bath run, surrounded by thousands of rose petals, and with champagne on ice by the bath!
That evening our table at dinner was covered with roses and again all around masses of rose petals. Altogether a brilliant day. We suspect there was a little TO sorcery involved!
The game viewing was also excellent. Staying at Crater Lodge meant that we could be down in the crater very early, which meant that for the first 3 to 4 hours there were very few other vehicles. The variety of game was astonishing in such a limited area and Mudy was an excellent guide. The only downside (which was understandable in such a limited area) was that the vehicles are not permitted to leave the tracks.
On our last morning we went to Olduvai Gorge which we found fascinating. We found to our surprise that 90% of visitors only go to the museum at the top, unlike us who found the real interest down at the discovery sites in the gorge, which we had to ourselves.
Alex Walker’s Serian
This is all proper safari camping should be. Not luxury but service second to none. We have had excellent service in other camps over the years but this is the first time we found that the owners/managers had a genuine affection for their guests. Both camps are in lovely wooded situations, but close to the Serengeti Plain. Alex himself met us at Kusini airstrip and guided us throughout. His guiding and knowledge of the area is exceptional and he was extremely likeable and friendly. The camp has only four tents, presided over by the delightful Robyn, and all the guests were great fun, giving the feel of a large harmonious family. After a (deliberately) long game drive, we transferred to Kakaseo, their other camp in the South Serengeti, presided over by Robyn’s aunt Belinda and uncle Gerard. This was very similar, run in exactly the same efficient friendly fashion. Masha, our guide here was also incredibly good and great fun. Most of their staff are Maasai, so on the last evening, at our request we visited the boma of a relative of one of the staff – strictly not for tourists! This was fascinating and they were friendly, but Celina emerged absolutely white! We will not forget that visit for a while. I seem to have missed out the game, but it was amazing. Masha reckoned we had seen a million wildebeest, calving (incredibly quickly) running, jumping, swimming and with hundreds of thousands of calves. Lots of other game as well. Only the leopard eluded us, although I was sure I had heard it one night.
Ras Kutani
This was our third time in Ras Kutani over eight years, and it has not changed in the slightest. I don’t think I need to say much more than that it really is the perfect place to unwind. Superb suite with plunge pool, excellent food and friendly service, beautiful beach and nothing to do other than swim, read, eat and drink. Even flipflops are superfluous! An example of their attitude to customers was that although checkout is officially 10.a.m. but we would not be leaving until 6 p.m., and our successors would be arriving early, they simply gave us another banda as our base with the use of all the facilities until we left, at no charge.
All in all, we had a marvellous time and are happy we took your advice, despite my initial reservations. We did have some reservations about our return flight with Kenya Airways, but I have written to them. I did copy it to you, but if you have not received it, let me know and I will forward it to you.
Many thanks for all your help and advice.
